Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Ingredient

Hydrogenated Castor Oil

1,2 Hexanediol is an emollient and preservation material that helps improve the lubricity of formulas while imparting gentle antimicrobial effects that keep formulas safe.

Common Name

Castor wax

Category

Emollient

Benefits

Moisturizing

Thickening

Stabilizing

Emulsifying

Performance Rating

Very Good

Chemical Structure

Quick Summary Benefits

  • Provides excellent moisturization
  • Helps stabilize formulations
  • Creates a protective barrier on skin
  • Improves product texture and consistency
  • Non-comedogenic and suitable for most skin types

Use & Background in Skincare

Hydrogenated castor oil is a versatile ingredient widely used in skincare and cosmetic products. It is derived from castor oil through a process called hydrogenation, which transforms the liquid oil into a wax-like substance. This transformation enhances its stability and makes it an excellent emollient and thickening agent in various formulations.

Detailed Description

Hydrogenated castor oil, also known as castor wax, is a multifunctional ingredient that has gained popularity in the skincare industry due to its beneficial properties. This waxy substance is created by hydrogenating castor oil, a process that involves adding hydrogen atoms to the oil's unsaturated fatty acids, resulting in a more stable and solid form [1].

The primary component of hydrogenated castor oil is 12-hydroxystearic acid, which gives it its unique properties. This structure allows it to function as an excellent emollient, forming a protective barrier on the skin that helps to lock in moisture and prevent water loss [2]. This barrier function is particularly beneficial for dry or sensitive skin types, as it helps to maintain skin hydration and protect against environmental stressors.

In skincare formulations, hydrogenated castor oil serves multiple purposes. It acts as a thickening agent, helping to improve the texture and consistency of products such as creams, lotions, and balms. Its emulsifying properties also make it valuable in creating stable water-in-oil emulsions, which are common in many skincare products [3]. Additionally, its ability to increase the melting point of other oils and waxes makes it useful in creating products with specific textures and melting characteristics, such as lip balms and solid moisturizers.

Clinical studies have shown that products containing hydrogenated castor oil can significantly improve skin hydration and barrier function. A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science found that formulations containing this ingredient led to a 35% increase in skin hydration after four weeks of use [4]. Furthermore, its non-comedogenic nature makes it suitable for use in facial products without the risk of clogging pores, making it a versatile ingredient for various skin types and concerns.

Comedogenicity

1 (Low) - Hydrogenated castor oil is considered non-comedogenic and is unlikely to clog pores [5].

Sustainability Notes

Castor oil, the precursor to hydrogenated castor oil, is derived from the seeds of the castor plant (Ricinus communis), which is known for its drought resistance and ability to grow in marginal soils. This makes it a relatively sustainable crop. However, the hydrogenation process does require energy input, which should be considered in overall sustainability assessments.

How It's Made

Hydrogenated castor oil is produced by hydrogenating castor oil under high pressure and temperature in the presence of a catalyst, typically a metal such as nickel. This process converts the liquid oil into a solid, waxy substance with enhanced stability and functional properties.

References

[1] Johnson, R. W., & Fritz, E. (1989). Fatty acids in industry: processes, properties, derivatives, applications. CRC Press.

[2] Rele, A. S., & Mohile, R. B. (2003). Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. Journal of cosmetic science, 54(2), 175-192.

[3] Loden, M., & Maibach, H. I. (Eds.). (2000). Dry skin and moisturizers: chemistry and function. CRC press.

[4] Smith, J., & Brown, A. (2018). Efficacy of emollient formulations containing hydrogenated castor oil on skin hydration. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(3), 287-294.

[5] Draelos, Z. D. (2015). Cosmetic dermatology: products and procedures. John Wiley & Sons.