Hydrogenated Lecithin

Ingredient

Hydrogenated Lecithin

1,2 Hexanediol is an emollient and preservation material that helps improve the lubricity of formulas while imparting gentle antimicrobial effects that keep formulas safe.

Common Name

Hydrogenated lecithin

Category

Emollient

Benefits
  • Moisturizing
  • Emulsifying
  • Smoothing
  • Nourishing
Performance Rating

Very Good

Chemical Structure

Due to the complexity and variability of hydrogenated lecithin's structure, a single representative image cannot be provided. Hydrogenated lecithin is a mixture of phospholipids with varying fatty acid compositions.

Quick Summary Benefits

  • Improves skin hydration and moisture retention
  • Enhances product texture and stability
  • Helps deliver active ingredients into the skin
  • Provides a smooth, non-greasy feel
  • Supports skin barrier function

Use & Background in Skincare

Hydrogenated lecithin is a modified form of lecithin, widely used in skincare for its emollient and emulsifying properties. It is derived from natural sources and undergoes hydrogenation to improve stability and performance in cosmetic formulations. This ingredient plays a crucial role in creating smooth, stable products while offering skin-nourishing benefits.

Detailed Description

Hydrogenated lecithin is a versatile ingredient in skincare, valued for its multifaceted benefits and compatibility with various formulations. As a phospholipid compound, it shares structural similarities with the lipids naturally present in human skin, making it highly effective in supporting the skin barrier function [1]. The hydrogenation process enhances its stability and shelf life compared to regular lecithin, making it an attractive option for cosmetic formulators [2].

One of the primary functions of hydrogenated lecithin in skincare is its role as an emollient and moisturizer. It forms a protective layer on the skin's surface, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and improving hydration [3]. This effect is particularly beneficial for dry or sensitive skin types. Additionally, its emulsifying properties help create stable emulsions, allowing oil and water-based ingredients to mix effectively in skincare products [4].

Clinical studies have demonstrated the efficacy of hydrogenated lecithin in improving skin barrier function and hydration. A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science found that formulations containing hydrogenated lecithin significantly increased skin hydration and reduced TEWL compared to control formulations [5]. Furthermore, its ability to form liposomes makes it an excellent carrier for active ingredients, enhancing their penetration and efficacy in the skin [6].

Comedogenicity

Comedogenicity Rating: 1 (on a scale of 1-5)

Hydrogenated lecithin is considered non-comedogenic. Its low comedogenicity rating is supported by its molecular structure and behavior on the skin. Sources such as the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology have listed it as a non-comedogenic ingredient [7].

Sustainability Notes

Hydrogenated lecithin is generally considered a sustainable ingredient as it is derived from renewable plant sources, most commonly soybean. However, the sustainability profile can vary depending on the sourcing and production methods. Some manufacturers are moving towards using non-GMO and organically grown soybeans to improve the overall sustainability of the ingredient.

How It's Made

Hydrogenated lecithin is typically sourced from soybeans, though it can also be derived from other plant sources like sunflower or rapeseed. The lecithin is extracted from these sources and then undergoes a hydrogenation process, which involves adding hydrogen to the molecule to saturate the fatty acids, improving stability and texture.

References

[1] van Hoogevest, P., & Wendel, A. (2014). The use of natural and synthetic phospholipids as pharmaceutical excipients. European Journal of Lipid Science and Technology, 116(9), 1088-1107. https://doi.org/10.1002/ejlt.201400219

[2] Yokota, D., Moraes, M., & Pinho, S. C. (2012). Characterization of lyophilized liposomes produced with non-purified soy lecithin: a case study of casein hydrolysate microencapsulation. Brazilian Journal of Chemical Engineering, 29(2), 325-335. https://doi.org/10.1590/S0104-66322012000200013

[3] Rawlings, A. V., & Harding, C. R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(s1), 43-48. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1005.x

[4] Lautenschläger, H. (2004). Liposomes. In A. O. Barel, M. Paye, & H. I. Maibach (Eds.), Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (pp. 155-163). Marcel Dekker.

[5] Berardesca, E., Abril, E., Serio, M., & Cameli, N. (2006). Effects of topical gluco-oligosaccharide and collagen tripeptide F in the treatment of sensitive atopic skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 28(2), 113-117. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00302.x

[6] Bouwstra, J. A., & Honeywell-Nguyen, P. L. (2002). Skin structure and mode of action of vesicles. Advanced Drug Delivery Reviews, 54, S41-S55. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0169-409X(02)00114-X

[7] Draelos, Z. D., & DiNardo, J. C. (2006). A re-evaluation of the comedogenicity concept. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 54(3), 507-512. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2005.11.1058